Daggertooth pike conger
ハモ はも hamo
Also known ashamo
At its best in Jun, Jul, Aug
When it is at its best
In seasonAvailable
How to cook
Yubiki (blanched)
Bone-cut and dipped in hot water so the flesh opens like a flower; eaten with ume paste.
Teriyaki
Glazed and grilled, with the skin side turning fragrant.
In clear soup
The bones and head give a deep broth. Pairing it with matsutake is the classic.
Tempura
Fried in batter, which leaves the flesh light and fluffy.
How to choose
A firm body with a white belly and clear eyes. Pre-cut fillets should not be broken up.
Storage
It is hardy and holds its freshness well. Once bone-cut, use it the same day.
Main areas
Good to know
Its many fine bones are dealt with by honekiri, a knife technique that makes twenty-four to twenty-six cuts per inch while leaving the skin intact. In Kyoto its season falls around the Gion Festival, which is sometimes called the hamo festival, and it is central to the city's summer cooking.
